![]() Wait approximately 10 to 15 minutes to allow the paste-over to begin to harden. If using a fast cure paste-over material (CIP-F, CIP-LO or ETR), wipe off the leaking injection epoxy with a cotton cloth and re-apply the paste over material. As with hairline cracks, saw cuts and tool joints, often seen in exterior concrete and garages. Epoxy is leaking from the pasted-over crack or around injection ports. ![]() Presto, you’re done Saw Cuts & Tool Joints. Pics from link above, shows some basic stock crack repairs, drill down crack, clean very good, fill and work epoxy through crack from drilled hole, back fill hole with Bamboo Shiskabob skewer (wallmart) trim and finish as required. Once the epoxy primer coat has been applied, small hairline concrete cracks (smaller than the width of dime) require a little elastomeric sealant and a quick scrape with a putty knife. If you bored, just search through the stock care forum at surplus firearms, some of the repairs are absolutely amazing. and I've seen it at Wallmart also, but I know OHS has it. Has the stock been removed to see how deep the crack goes into it? many times Like the repair in the top paragraph, Candyman will take a drill, and drill down the crack (chasing it) from under the butt plate or from the forward end, of course keeping away from the edge of the wood, then use the hole to force epoxy down it and force it though the crack, then take a Bamboo shishkabob skewer available at wall mart, coated with the glue to go back down in the hole to lock it all back together, Does that make sense or maybe I've lost you.Ĭandy man also recommends against gorilla glue, he prefers agraglass kit, (Brownells) or Devcon 2 ton epoxy available from many local h/w stores, I got mine at OSH. If this is not helpful go here and see if you can find a repair that matches your defect, Candyman is amazing, find the thread "the victims of Candy man, you'll be amazed, in this or other threads you may find something that exactly matches your crack ? sounds bad? This may help if the crack is going deep into the wood, It worked perfectly.) The wood was highly figured walnut on a Parker shotgun and no one has ever noticed the repair in about 20 years.If it is just a surface crack, and does not go down in the wood, I would just fill with Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy and clamp it up, butt. (I added a lot of walnut sawdust to the epoxy to make it look more like wood and to take finish more like the wood. I once added some Sharpie black lines in the area of the repair where wood was actually missing to help camouflage the darker streak caused by the epoxy filling the void. Any slight glue line usually looks like the grain, or a streak in the wood if the line is larger. When you need to repair a crack in a concrete structure such as a foundation or wall from the inside (negative side) of the structure, there are typically two injection techniques and corresponding product technologies that you need to consider epoxy resin injection and. If the crack is small, usually the line cannot be seen at all so the texture is not an issue. Epoxy and Polyurethane Resin Based Crack Repair Systems are the Superheroes of Concrete Crack Repair. The good thing about epoxy is that the cured glue is as hard as the finish on most stocks, and can be polished to match a shiny finish, or buffed to match a satin finish. I used some of it years ago (it was tan), and it had a tiny bit of flexability, which I would not think would be a good thing for a stock repair either. Isn't "Liquid Nails" tan in color? If so, I would think the tan line would show.
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